Photo 20 March 2020 - Soi Cowboy closed down for an indeterminate period.
There is only one story in town, and that is Covid-19 (the contraction of Coronavirus Disease-2019) which is caused by the virus SARS-CoV-2. For conformity we will use 'Coronavirus' throughout for the disease and the virus. The Coronavirus pandemic is not only the only story in town, it is the only story on the planet. This month MIDNITE HOUR will report on the progress and the effects of the disease on Bangkok's Night Entertainment Scene.
VIDEO CLIP
By the 18th March, Bangkok's bars had already been officially closed, so when the stray nightcrawler wandered into Soi Cowboy he was more than a little surprised to see the Soi lit-up with its usual 'Las Vegas' style neon. Come to find out, yes, the bars were closed (with the exception of an open 'bar beer' or two), but a French film company was filming, and the Soi 23 end was packed solid with camera crews, actors and mostly 'local' expat and Thai extras. The crowd, too large, was not by any measure 'social distancing', potentially exposing many to the Coronavirus. Hopefully there was no contagion...
SOI COWBOY
Last month we briefly referred to the Coronavirus, but held back from any elaboration for fear of creating anxiety or panic (becoming part of the problem). We had observed the daily WHO charts - the rate of new Coronavirus infections worldwide was low, and approximately linear, and the cases in Thailand were comparatively few. This however is no longer the case, as the number of infections is in fact rising exponentially - the appropriate time to reassess and to examine rationally.
Note to travellers:
For the time being, Thailand's borders are sealed under the Emergency Decree (Emergency Decree on Public Administration in Emergency Situations B.E. 2548 (2005)), with the exception of those involved in the execution of the decree (see below for details). As far as tourism and the Nightlife is concerned, this means no one in, no one out (however, some exceptions are being made on a case by case basis for foreigners exiting the country).
Even when international travel can be arranged, some airlines may or may not be flying at all. The status of whether or not a given airline is flying changes from day to day, and potential travellers will need to keep current on status. Should an airline suddenly be advised that they can no longer fly to a specific foreign destination, they will summarily cancel passenger reservations without notification, so the individual will have to make other arrangements. Some countries will not be allowing incoming flights from Thailand, so potential travellers will need to confirm on this. Destination countries may have quarantine periods on arrival, and potential travellers will want to confirm on this prior to departure to avoid unpleasant surprises on arrival at destination.
Travel to and from the Provinces is not allowed except for those who must travel, and they must be screened prior to travel. They may be required to show Covid-19-free test results at various checkpoints.
To recap, the status of all travel restrictions and all airline flights continues to be in flux, and all of the above, for greater or lesser, will last indefinitely, dependent on the severity of the Coronavirus and the various and ever-changing government regulations here in Thailand, and at country of destination. It is incumbent on the traveller to update each status frequently / as necessary.
It appears Coronavirus is very infectious and only moderately deadly. Even the best statistics, as accumulated by the World Health Organization (WHO) are woefully incomplete: with some countries not reporting, others misreporting, and others that were originally reporting have stopped reporting. Nevertheless, there is enough statistical data to determine trends.
"No country for old men," indeed....
How Darwinian ! (THE CULLING OF THE AGED...)
These percentages will vary slightly as more data are accumulated by reliable sources, however it has already become apparent that the trends will not change.
Trends to watch to determine if the Coronavirus Pandemic is peaking, or turning the corner into decline, is to watch the total number infected, on the same graph as those recovered, on the same graph as the deceased. When the two graphed lines, total infected and the total recovered flatten out and start to converge, then the disease is coming under control. As at the date of this writing, there is no flattening or convergence of the two lines (Infected & Cured). It should be noted that the curve representing the number of cured would naturally trail by 2 - 4 weeks (rough estimate), due to incubation and recovery times. On the first of March, this writer extrapolated that this flattening and convergence of the curves would start to be observable globally by April 15 (plus or minus) based on epidemiological practices in most countries. That prediction was made based on what was observed to be a (nearly) linear increase in infections (now not the case), so currently there is not enough statistical data to make an 'educated guess' on this, no matter what they tell you.
Other than Patpong 1'sChang sign and a couple of shops that kept their lights on for security purposes, the Soi was darker than a poisoned well.
Changing Coronavirus from an epidemic to a pandemic (officially) did little, other than to increase the general panic level (panic buying, etc). Where the disease will eventually go is of course up in the air (no pun intended). The Coronavirus could, as one medical expert predicted, be with us forever, similar to the seasonal flu which killed > 40,000 in the US this last 2019-2020 flu season - according to the CDC. Estimates of deaths in the multiple hundred-thousands in the US are based on worst case scenarios from U.S. Administration officials who should know better, - their extrapolations are not justified - based on what we see in their own data. They would have us believe they are 'protecting the public from shock' by putting out these 'over-the-top' figures, while they cover their asses in case the figures, however tragically, are somehow even close to accurate.
The Paddy Field, lit only by our flash, sat with its neighbor Nightspots in almost total darkness on Patpong 2.
Many do not yet grasp that Governments and epidemiologists have implemented these relatively strict shut-downs and isolations so that the rate of infection will slow down - and not to forever protect us from contracting the disease. Yet, this slow-down (this 'flattening of the curve') will help in two major areas - first, it prevents the existing medical treatment facilities from becoming overwhelmed, and secondly, it provides valuable time where medical practices (treatment methodology) can be improved, temporary medical facilities can be put in place (in unused hotels, etc), and where development of vaccines and other medicines can be advanced. To say the same thing another way, isolation, for a greater part, is prolonging the disease, but at a less disruptive, less deadly pace. And finally, as recovered individuals have proven that they do indeed develop immunity, epidemiologists are hopeful that given enough time, there will be a 'herd-immunity', where most people have been exposed to it, and most of those are individually immune. - These individuals would, in theory, be those first 'out of the chute', and back to work.
The Nana Plaza signage, dimly lit from the Nana Hotel lighting across the street, couldn't hide the darkness pouring out from within...
MIDNITE HOUR will continue to monitor the situation in Bangkok, and in following issues we will be updating the status of the Coronavirus Pandemic as it affects Bangkok and Thailand. For those who would like to follow the 'world picture' in Coronavirus data, the graphs we monitor daily are found on : https://www.worldometers.info
Even "Soi Massage Parlor" on Soi 22 (just past the Marriott) was closed down ...except.....
If there will be one thing all will remember once the 'plague' lifts from the land, it will be the face mask. (Although most of Bangkok was already masked-up trying to avoid the PM 2.5 micron pollution...)
CHRONOLOGY OF THE BANGKOK SHUT-DOWN
Below, in chronological order are the Bangkok Governor's and the Prime Minister's orders relating to controlling the spread of the Coronavirus. This record shows the sequential actions by the authorities in shutting-down Bangkok and the country in an attempt to limit contageon. The directives explicitly show when and what, quelling the several rumors and false interpretations seen in print and on the Internet. Translations are for the most part 'in the vernacular' and avoid direct translation from the formal Thai used in Government announcements.
This official 17 March 2020 notice from the Bangkok Governor's Office was distributed on the Internet, while tens of thousands of hard copies were being pasted on the various shops and businesses on that date, and on the 18th of March. Some are saying this notice on their doors is the new 'Plague Cross' and will cause their businesses to die, even though they are not likely to promote viral contagion...
Today's Plague Cross ( MARKED FOR EXTINCTION ? )
City Of Bangkok Notice
Regarding the Temporary Closing of Establishments
Concerning the situation of the spreading of the Coronavirus 2019 (or COVID-10), which is a dangerous infectious disease, follows is the announcement of the Public Health Ministry - 'Subject: Description and Important Dangerous Symptoms (Doc No. 3) Year 2563'. Bangkok is the center of economic activity, transportation and tourism, and has a high population density, and is at risk of rapidly spreading the disease. It is essential to control the disease in a timely manner to limit contagion in the general population as well as stopping the wider spreading of the disease in various high risk areas.
Pursuant to Rule 35 (1) of Law PS 2558, the Governor of Bangkok, in agreement with the Bangkok Committee on Contageous Disease, (the 4th instance) on 17 March 2020, directs the temporary closure of places of business from 18 March 2020 to 31 March 2020, as per below:
1. Establishments offering massage (bath-steam-massage), excepting establishments offering such as medical treatment.
2. Establishments providing facilities for bathing, steam bath or herbal steam bath, excepting establishments offering such as medical treatment.
3. Places of entertainment (Theaters, Playhouses (such as lakorn), other entertainment venues).
4. Exercise / fitness gyms / studios.
5. Service industry stablishments offering similar services.
6. Boxing stadia.
7. Sports facilities / complexes.
8. Horse racing tracks.
Announcement Date: 17 March 2020
Police General Asawan Kwanmuong
Bangkok Governor
This is the official 23 March 2020 notice from the Bangkok Governor's Office.
City Of Bangkok Notice
Subject: Controlling the Spreading of the Contageous Viral Disease Corona 2019 or COVID-I9 Disease
(Coronavirus Disease 2019 (COVID-19))
The Governor of Bangkok has approved the findings of the Bangkok Committee on Contageous Disease. The following are the announced measures to control the spreading of the infectious disease Coronavirus 2019 (or COVID-19):
1. Request your cooperation (joining hands to gether) by not leaving the Bangkok Area due to:
1.1. If you don't currently have the disease, you might contract the disease while travelling.
1.2 Should you have contracted the disease you will likely revover on your own, however if you travel, you could make the disease worse.
1.3 If you have the disease, you will likely be a carrier, and infect those you are travelling with and your family members on arriving at your home destination.
2. Request your cooperation to remain indoors, while maintaining cleanliness in your area to include the toilet. Look after your own health and the others in your home/area, and guard against contracting the disease from outside the home area.
3. Request your cooperation at the place of employment - Government offices, Government enterprises and private companies : At the place of work, immediately and strictly arrange procedures to protect against disease by cleaning the place you occupy, cleaning the toilets and arranging seating to insure spacing of 1 - 2 meters apart. Precautions should include the protection of other employees and any other personnel within. Examples : Wearing masks, arranging a point for washing hands, arranging a point to dispose of trash in accordance with guidelines of the Public Health Ministry. Also consider policy for altering (staggering) working times and working from home, emphasize use of the Internet : (Example: video conferencing.)
4. Request the cooperation of those who have attended boxing stadiums, places of entertainment, places that have reported incidence of Coronavirus 2019, or who have been in heavily congested areas, or who have touched persons or are sick. Rest at home and observe symptoms as per the Ministry of Public Health : If you get a fever, or experience coughing or a sore throat, or become exhausted while breathing, or experience difficulty breathing you are to consult a doctor.
5. Request your cooperation in avoiding crowded / congested areas, and always observe social distncing of 1 - 2 meters from others.
6. Request your cooperationat government offices, public enterprises or private companies to cease conducting activities where a number of persons would otherwise congregate : examples: meetings: seminars, training, product exhibitions and other events such as : concerts, on-location for making lakorn / rehearsing plays, filming movies or taping television programs / dramas or live programming, or the making of recordings.
7. Request your cooperation at transportation hubs (bus stations, train stations, etc) to reduce crowding in the area providing services. Increase the number of ticket selling kiosks, arrange 2- 3 meters between individuals queuing for purchasing tickets, increase the number of vehicles, clean the public areas that are jointly used. Arrange points to obtain alcohol gel for washing hands. Arrange for screening by checking body temperature, and arrange to dispose of trash/ garbage following the guidelines of the Ministry of Public Health. When encountering persons who exhibit symptoms of illness : coughing, sneezing, or 'running nose' request their cooperation in wearing a mask.
Announcement Date: 23 March 2020
(signed)
Police General Asawan Kwanmuong
Bangkok Governor
24 March 2020
The Daily News
On the 24th March 2020, the Prime Minister of Thailand formally revealed he had received authority to implement the Emergency Decree on Public Administration in Emergency Situations B.E. 2548 (2005). While the emergency decree consists of several measures, the Government was, at that time, considering the 6 Articles listed below. (The Government had, and has the option to implement all, or only some of these measures, and/or other measures allowable under the Decree.) It was anticipated at that juncture that on Thursday 26 March 2020 the Government would announce which Articles would be in force.
1. Bar the public from leaving their places of residence except for approved hours, unless with permission. Exempt are persons in charge of implementing this prohibition. (Implementation of a curfew.)
2. Prohibit persons gathering whose intention is disturbing the peace.
3. Prohibit the distribution of books or printed matter, or the creation and distribution of news which would create fear in the population. Prohibit the dissemination of false claims which would cause misunderstanding during an emergency situation.
4. Limit and/or forbid use of the transportation network.
5. Bar access to certain buildings and structures.
6. Evacuate persons from specified areas for their own safety, and/or forbid persons from entering specified areas for their own safety.
(Summarized in English Language from Thai publication The Daily News)
Update Thursday 26 March 2020 From the Prime Minister
After having received authorization on 23-24 March 2020, the Prime Minister of Thailand invoked some Articles of the Emergency Decree on Public Administration in Emergency Situations B.E. 2548 (2005) on 25th March 2020. While the Emergency Decree provides for several separate measures, the Prime Minister put into effect only some of those measures, as outlined in the following 16 points, which became effective 26 March 2020. (Note that contrary to much rumor, there is no curfew - however it does remain an option under the 2005 Emergency Decree, should the Government so decide at a future date).
1. Forbid access to areas known to have Covid-19.
2. Close off high risk areas, the Bangkok Governor and Priovince Governors are tasked to implement the provisions of this Decree.
3. Close off the Thai borders to air, land and sea crossings, with the exception of those implementing the Decree.
4. The hoarding of medicines, medical supplies, food, drinking water, consumables and edibles is forbidden.
5. Prohibit persons gathering together to participate in illicit activities, and/ or congregating in crowded and/or congested areas.
6. It is forbidden to misrepresent or falsely report on Covid-19.
7. Implement security policies for Governor BMA and Provincial Governors to effect controls during the emerging situation. Governors shall provide essential information to the people. They shall confine and observe persons exhibiting symptoms.
8.High risk groups should (but are not forced to) remain in their places of residence. For example; Persons of 70 years of age or older, persons with chronic diseases, children less than 5 years old. (Exception: when visiting a medical doctor.)
9. Implement security policy for exiting and entering the country. Strictly check visa stamps and the issuing of visas.
10. Implement security measures for peaceful and proper activity in Bangkok. Arrange watchpoints on main arteries and at transportation hubs (such as bus stations, etc.)
11. Implement safety procedures such as keeping premises clean, wearing sanitary masks, washing of hands, maintaining distance of 1 meter between individuals, avoid crowded / congested areas.
12.Venues to always remain open in the usual manner: Hospitals, Pharmacies (Drug stores), restaurants (that are not also places of entertainment), shops, stores (only supermarkets), factories, banks, markets (food markets only), gas stations (petrol stations), bus stations, delivery services, Government offices (except educational facilities/ schools of all level).
13. The population should rest or work at home. Stop or postpone travel to the provinces. In cases where it is necessary to travel, persons must first be screened, and follow Emergency Decree policies.
14. When planning ceremonies in keeping with custom or tradition, arrangements may be made properly and appropriately, but must follow Emergency Decree guidelines. (Examples: weddings, entering the monkhood, funerals.)
15. Persons not following the first 6 rules herein are subject to punishment as per Article 18 (not shown here), depending on the individual case.
16. The above rules are applicable country-wide, to include areas in between areas considered dangerous/ critical.
READER :
Your blog frequently reports on the comings and goings at the Patpong Museum. What is the story with them, as they are not a bar, are they still going to be open?
MIDNITE HOUR:
Thanks for writing in. The Patpong Museum was closed when we passed by a few nights ago. The museum is classified as a place of entertainment, and as such will be required to close as per provisions of the current Covid-19 Emergency Decree. We are assured however, that it will be reopening immediately there is an easing in the Articles of the Decree.
READER : Hello:
First, I enjoy your blog very much and read it often. May I ask, do you know what exactly happened to Annies Massage? I knew Aey (mamasan) well and spent a lot of fun times there. I have heard many rumors as to why it was closed (rent increased, stealing water, etc.) but do you know the real story?
Kob khun krap.
MIDNITE HOUR: Greetings,
All we can tell you for sure is that the Annie's Massage located in the Rajah Hotel Compound opened in 1972 and closed in February 2018 (reported in Bangkok Eyes in March of that year). We also heard a number of rumors as to why it closed, however we were not able to verify any of them. We can confirm that in the Rajah Hotel compound, at least in the recently renovated facilities on the Soi 4 side (Soi Nana), including the outbuilding, the rents were raised substantially after renovations were completed. We couldn't confirm rent increases on the Soi 2 side (Annie's, The Mexican).
However, sometimes the simplest explanation could be the right one - in recent years small, single-shophouse massage parlors offering full (or near full) services have been popping up on virtually every Sukhumvit soi, to include Soi Nana. It is likely Annie's was no longer doing enough business to maintain.
Annie's other venues in the Rajah compound, Annie's Do Do Pool and Annie's Pub & Bar (located in the outbuilding) closed in September 2016 due to the above-mentioned major renovations to the hotel. Neither reopened after renovations were completed.
READER :
I notice that the MIDNITE HOUR highlighted the Miami Hotel in your recent issue. Another old hotel that I recall from the 1960s is the Manohra Hotel at the bottom of Surawong Road. I just returned home from Thailand, just in time it seems, but It looks like it changed its name to the Ma? Back in the day, they used to have live entertainment, usually a Philippine band. Do you have any updated info on the Manohra?
MIDNITE HOUR:
Things seem to come in bunches - twice within a matter of days, the Manohra Hotel has come up in conversation. In addition to that, I find that a friend's historical websiteOld Bangkok.com <link> has an interesting photo of the Manhora from many years ago. Our graphic above is an old advertisement that the Manohra Hotel placed in the newspapers at the end of 1966 - first of 1967. The 1960's can be remembered historically as the 'Era of the Phillipine Bands' - most hotels and clubs of any size had live bands performing, and most of those bands were Phillipine bands. The only update on the old hotel is that which you have already mentioned - it is still open, and has in fact changed its name to the "Ma" Hotel.
As described above, until further notice, all places of entertainment in Thailand are 'No-Go Zones' during the Coronavirus shutdown - this, of course, includes all the Night Entertainment Areas that the MIDNITE HOUR covers on our monthly surveys. Looking ahead, aside from the effect it will have on the thousands of Night Entertainment workers and staff, there will be an ever increasing number of Nitespots that will no longer be able to survive financially. The longer the Coronavirus remains a disruptive force in Thailand, the greater will be the number of Night Entertainment Venues that will disappear. We face the prospect of a vastly different landscape when things return to "normal". This month, we will highlight the various Night Entertainment Areas / Nightspots currently affected by the Coronavirus closedown in Bangkok.
The Club Rio, while closed down, was one of several bars that turned their lights on (for one night) while a French movie crew commenced with their filming...
The Stumble Inn was, like the rest of Nana Plaza, closed down, however a few entrepreneurial street people were selling a beer or two on the sidewalk in front. We note they are no longer doing so...
The Heidelberg, perhaps the oldest Nitespot on Soi 4, (not counting hotel coffee shops at the 'Ra-Jah' and Nana Hotel) sits in darkness. Only its upstairs 'boutique hotel' remains in business.
The Lek @ 22 Massage and a few other shops have kept their lights on - in an otherwise very dark Soi. But don't be misled, these venues are in fact closed.
The Villa Supermarket (right-hand side in the photo below) is the only legitimately 'open' place of business on this stretch of Soi Ambassador (Soi 11 Sukhumvit).
The Long Shots, the first to open in Soi 7 Plaza, now sits in total darkness. (D-Nice Bar in the background). The bars in Soi 7 Plaza, having just opened, were still trying to get on their feet on the ground - they will be the hardest hit by the shut-down. It remains to be seen how many Nitespots will actually reopen once the plague is lifted from the land.
An interesting shot of Soi Dead Artists (Soi 33 Sukhumvit Rd). The only lights to be seen are those businesses that can legitimately claim to be restaurants, and 'other' businesses not affected by the close-down.
Soi Eden - shut down and in darkness... with the exception of one boutique hotel at the end of the Soi, ... and perhaps one or two Lights Out 'massage parlors'...
Bangkok Eyes goes back in time to see
Who was New - And Who was Through
in the Expat Night Entertainment World
How many of these old 'Oases'
Do you remember ?
Patpong I
April 2000
**The Girl Friend Bar reopened after a brief closure. They were located over (2nd level) the still-existing Safari Bar. No Nitespot currently occupies those digs.
(Total Nitespots that month: 34 )
Patpong 2
April 2000
* The King's Garden closed temporarily for renovations. They did reopen, however recently that real estate was absorbed by the King's Corner 2katoeyA Go-Go.
* The Mahalapa Club & Karaoke opened newly up on The Ramp in the just-closed Club Abaniko (Hearty Club) digs. There is currently no Nitespot at that location.
* The Le Buchon Restaurant - Bar closed temporarily for renovations. They are still at that location today.
(Total Nitespots that month: 56 )
Soi Cowboy
April 2000
* The Shirtz opened newly in the just closed Dubbel Dutch. Those premises are now occupied by Fanny's.
* The Nice Bar opened newly in the just closed New Loretta Bar. Those premises are now occupied by Lighthouse.
*The Boomerang - NEW along the back fence.
* The Ying Corner - NEW along the back fence.
* The Bourbon - NEW (ex: Black Ant - CLOSED) - at front.
* The B 52 - NEW - at front.
* The Love Shack - NEW - at front.
* The Blue Bird - NEW - at front.
* The {A boxing ring) - NEW - on the 'Island'.
(Total Nitespots that month: 15 )
Nana Plaza
April 2000
* ( No changes that month / year. )
(Total Nitespots that month: 41 )
Soi Katoey ( Silom Soi 4 )
April 2000
*The Beyond closed its doors. Today that space is home to Bas Living Room.
(Total Nitespots that month: 16 )
Soi Dead Artists ( Sukhumvit Soi 33 )
April 2000
*Club Guden Guden opened newly in the recently closed Our Lounge in the Peep In Park (Now the S 33 Compact Hotel).
(Total Nitespots that month: 19 )
Buckskin Joe Village (~ December 1988 to 9 June 2006)
(Also called Tobacco Road, Soi Rot Fai, 'The Tracks' , Machim [Thai] & Soi Zero)
April 2000
* The Kiss Me Bar bar beer (closed the previous month) reopened.
(Total Nitespots that month: 19 )
Washington Square (~ April 1999 to April 2014)
April 2000
* ( No changes that month / year. )
-
(Total Nitespots that month: 16 )
Clinton Plaza
(Originally ''Entertainment Plaza'')
[ ~February 1999to June 2003 ]
April 2000
*Charlies On Sukhumvit (Exhibition) became Checkpoint Charlies. Outside just behind Main Building.
*Kangaroo Club - NEW - (Ex: White House.) Outside just behind Main Building.
*(A Boxing Ring) - NEW - On the 'Island'.
*Flowers A-GO-GO - NEW - (Ex Nuch Snack Bar / Nuch Bar - CLOSED) - Outside, against back wall.
(Total Nitespots that month: 24 )
''13 Night Market'' Entertainment Area"
(Originally 'Old Thermae Compound')
[ April 2000 - March 2005 ]
A teenager in Athens, Greece going by the handle "S.F." has been forced to change his spraypainting venues due to the Coronavirus. Previously he was putting up his street art at street level, however, now that the public thoroughfare is off limits, he has found new 'canvasses' on the city's rooftops...
At sixteen years of age, S.F. has been a 'street artist' for nine years (2011), or so he claims. He finances all his own work, spending all spare money he has on buying spraypaint and graffiti paraphernalia. In keeping with the spirit of the times, his pieces (now the preferred term is 'murals') now reflect cautionary Coronavirus messages.
Bangkok Eyes is an historically based news outlet, and as such, all graphic excerpts herein are considered, under current legal precedents and prevailing interpretations, 'Fair Use' under Copyright Law. Copyright of any original artwork and photographs resides exclusively with the creators.
Graffiti #1170
Old-Country Gramps
10 ft high x 9 ft
Graffiti #1171
All Over The Place
6 ft high x 9 ft
Bangkok Eyes is an historically based news outlet, and as such, all graphic excerpts herein are considered,
under current legal precedents and
prevailing interpretations, 'Fair Use' under Copyright Law. Copyright of any original artwork resides exclusively with the artists.
Bangkok's original site !
The MIDNITE HOUR Graffiti Page is prepared by Staff Contributor "Boge" Hartman.
(Boge's photo, above, is not a graffitiper-se, although there are those who have insinuated....
-
Ed)