Bangkok, 01 October 2004 William R. Morledge |
 ![]() Chuwit Is Selling His Brothels
Borderline Sex
Rumor Of The Month
October's Follies in review
Hard For The Money
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         MIDNITE HOUR's first report this month is from down South in the resort of Koh Samui.   The face of this island is changing so rapidly, we felt it was worthy of a note to the 'archives' -a point-in-time snapshot- in the remote chance some future
Historian-Of-Trivial-Things might happen upon this.   
         Historically, Koh Samui with it's several splendid white sand beaches has not had a Night Entertainment Scene, let alone specific Night Entertainment Areas.   However over the last two decades, growth of tourism has been so rapid, and the infrastructure has been modernized on such a grand scale, it was inevitable that the world of Night Entertainment would become a major tourist offering.            In the '70's and early 80's travellers to Koh Samui would (at a minimum) bring a roll of cord to hang out their laundry in front of their 60-baht-per-night a-frame hooches, candles for lighting after the generators were turned off at 9:00 PM, and, most importantly, a flashlight.   (The bungalow-style hotels with quaint names like "Joy", "Coconut Bangalow" (sic), "Magic", and "Bungalow Bill's" usually provided the mosquito nets.)   Before sunset, a walk up and down either the Lamai or Chaweng beach front was necessary to determine at which bungalow's restaurant you would be having dinner.   But food had nothing to do with it, the bungalow restaurants that did the best business were the ones with the best movies on the BetaMax or the VCR - and each day, they would update their signs or blackboards with the evening's movie fare and put them out on the beach front in hopes of attracting a good crowd later that evening.   And that was it, as far as "nightlife" in Koh Samui.   After the video ended, the flashlights were, of course, most useful in finding your way down the wet sand and surf and through the dark coconut suan and eventually back to your own thatched hooch, sometimes half a mile away.             If you needed supplies such as laundry detergent or batteries, you could rent a motorcycle or jump on a song thaew and be across the island to the main town of Na Thon in about a half an hour.   But even in Na Thon, the biggest town on the island, there was no Nightlife.   While Na Thon was, and is, the administrative center, it was -at least for the tourist- only a transit point. The Song Serm ferry landed there and offloaded locals and farang alike, and took an equal number back to Surat Thani on the mainland.   Those just arriving were barraged by song thaew drivers calling, 'ChawengChawengChaweng,' or 'LamaiLamaiLamai,' and the bulk of new arrivals were trundled off to one or the other destination to begin their beach front bungalow search.   This was long before the vehicle ferry and the airport - and it was virtually the only way on , off, or around the island.          But as the 1970's wore on into the '80's and the developers began to see the potential for an island 'Riviera'-style resort, the old-style thatched bungalows began to disappear, the beach front coconut plantations were bought up, and even many of the local fishing villages were pushed aside.   As our stringer, Duke d'Yenakat said in his posting from Lamai last month, "There were two kinds of people that went to Koh Samui; those that went to enjoy it and those that went to make money off of it."    The island of Koh Samui went from a "best-kept-secret" to a backpacker "must-see" to an internationally known resort in less than two decades.   Not that it could have been otherwise, but they -we- have completely and complacently traded 'adventure' for 'comfort'.             And one of the 'comforts' that began appearing in increasing numbers in the 1980's was the 'bar beer'.   Greatly facilitated by newly available provincial electricity, colored lights and refrigerated beer were suddenly available after sunset - and even after the last bungalow video-movies were over.   Nevertheless, the bar beer phenomenon was slow to catch on - the bungalows that had restaurants were also now 'electrified' and they too were offering at least cold Singh beer, if not 'after hours activities'.   "Nightlife" had arrived, even if it only had it's toe in the door.             As Koh Samui's construction boom became a construction explosion, Chaweng Beach, more so than Lamai Beach, was transmogrified.   Contributing factors to the Chaweng Phenomenon are it's size, and proximity to both the new airport and the vehicle ferry terminal.   Today's Chaweng is a solid mile of construction - from it's northern tip to it's southern cove, there is no undeveloped property.   If you want to walk out on the sand, or go swimming, you will have to walk through the grounds of someone's development.   There are no more coconut trees, let alone coconut plantations - it has become a monolithic manmade strip-mall running the full length of it's beach front.   But these new structures are not all bungalow-style hotels as in days of old, they are pharmacies, hospitals, bodybuilding gyms, clinics, 7-Eleven's, bookstores, restaurants, coffeeshops, bar beers, souvenir shops, Internet cafes - you name it.   There are even two A-Go-Go Bars, a blues bar, several Discos and a Tesco-Lotus superstore.          But as happens with haphazard, explosive development, there is no single area of Chaweng that could be called a Night Entertainment Area - the various Night Entertainment Venues being spread out the full length of the beach front road.   It is also worthy of mention that being farther from the flagpole, there is much less evidence of the self-righteous mental midgets that believe they can micro-manage 'sin' in general, and the Nightlife Scene in particular, by telling everyone what time his or her bedtime is...   This tends to confirm, along with our other visits to outlying provinces that the aura of the current Autocracy's pinch-witted zeal casts it's tedious shadow almost exclusively over the Bangkok area.             With nearly a million people a year now visiting Koh Samui, the demographics of the island have changed - at any given time, the population of Koh Samui is predominantly foreign - and it's center of gravity is at Chaweng Beach -- the town of Na Thon having become a comparative backwater.   Having taken advantage of every square inch, and every available minute, Chaweng is unquestionably the Nightlife Capital of Koh Samui.          Lamai Beach's development has, thank the Heavens, come at a much slower pace   And it is at Lamai that we established our beachhead - in hopes of at least being able to savor the remaining nostalgic glimpse of coconut trees, or perhaps an old, familiar sign or two, or drink a smoothie at one of the 'pioneer' bungalow restaurants.   And as it works out, all this is still possible, but just.          Being relatively frequent return visitors over the years, we have made our own predictions as to what the future would bring re: the development of Lamai Beach.   Our predictions were replete with what could, and could not possibly come to pass.   But once again our sage, all-knowing views of the future were rudely contradicted by the reality of Economic Darwinism.   To wit - there ARE concrete & brick 'bungalows' on the water's edge with air-conditioning, and they ARE charging 4,700 baht per night.   There ARE Taxi-Meters, and they WILL take you where you want to go using the meter (unless of course it is raining, or it is very late at night and you want to go to a disco across the island).   There IS satellite television and it DOES have CNN and the Beeb.   And so it goes, but it was in the area of Night Entertainment that we saw the biggest surprises.          Lamai's slower pace of development has mimicked Chaweng in most respects, differing mostly in degree, but the Night Scene has progressed along more orderly lines.   While there are bar beers and other Night Entertainment Venues scattered the length of Lamai, the bulk of the bars has distilled into three distinct Night Entertainment Areas.   The three bar beer areas didn't pop up overnight, or even over the last 3 years, but the surprising aspect is that they have lasted this long, and that they have continued to grow to 'critical mass' and qualify as stand-alone Night Entertainment Areas on their own.   And as such, MIDNITE HOUR feels it is appropriate to take note and to make a permanent entry into the archives.          The adjoining Lamai Beach Area Map shows the three Night Entertainment Areas (A, B, & C), which correspond to :- Bar Beer Central    Night Entertainment Area, Variety Bars       Night Entertainment Area,        and Soi MacDonalds    Night Entertainment Area. These circular areas are represented just below as clickable 'thumbnails'.   You can view the individual Night Entertainment Areas by clicking on these. Lamai Beach Area Map
CLICK* On 'Thumbnails' to VIEW MAPS          Lamai Beach being a brand new bar area for MIDNITE HOUR, we were once again on the lookout for some original bar names - names that have aspired to something more than 'Lek Bar' or 'Sweetheart Bar'.   We were not disappointed - we found three completely original bar names - interesting, if not completely comprehensible.   Top on the list was Gow Badger International Bar. (Huh?)   Second on the list was Mellowheads, with the bronze going to Fubar.   Runners-up were Huggies and Backstage Rockbar.          Perhaps more apropos the Stickman Weekly column (faithfully read by yours truly), we saw several signs posted at the tour offices in Lamai offering, "Visa Renewal - 24 hours. Ranong".   (Ranong being a large town north of Phukhet at the point where Thailand, Burma and the Andaman Sea come together.)   Who would'a thunk...?   
Follies begin here
      MIDNITE HOUR presents the NEWS on the Bangkok Night Scene; - the 'history-in-the-making' for all major Night Entertainment Areas  - for the month ending  1 OCTOBER, 2004 :                                                
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               William R. Morledge              Copyright © 2004, BANGKOK EYES / bangkokeyes.com CLICK- For More Bangkok Nightlife !                                                         *CLICK*
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